Abstract
An infinite-order, Boussinesq-type differential equation for wave shoaling over variable bathymetry is derived. Defining three scaling parameters-nonlinearity, the dispersion parameter, and the bottom slope-the system is truncated to a finite order. Using Padé approximants the order in the dispersion parameter is effectively doubled. A derivation is made systematic by separately solving the Laplace equation in the undisturbed fluid domain and then addressing the nonlinear free-surface conditions. We show that the nonlinear interactions are faithfully captured. The shoaling and dispersion components are time independent.
Original language | English |
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Pages (from-to) | 319-333 |
Number of pages | 15 |
Journal | Journal of Fluid Mechanics |
Volume | 399 |
DOIs | |
State | Published - 25 Nov 1999 |
ASJC Scopus subject areas
- Condensed Matter Physics
- Mechanics of Materials
- Mechanical Engineering
- Applied Mathematics