FULLY DISPERSIVE EVOLUTION EQUATIONS: WAVE BREAKING and EFFICIENCY

H. Bredmose, P. A. Madsen, H. A. Schäffer, Y. Agnon

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contributionpeer-review

Abstract

A set of fully dispersive evolution equations with exact second-order transfer functions is derived. It is shown how Fast Fourier Transform (FFT) can be used for speeding up the calculation of the nonlinear terms within evolution equtions. A surface roller scheme for wave breaking is incorporated. Comparisons for results of regular breaking waves with a time domain Boussinesq model and a conventional breaking model of evolution equations are presented. The new breaking formulation is somewhat better to reproduce the asymmetric shape of the breaking waves. Amplitude dispersion is investigated using a perturbation approach. It is found that fully dispersive evolution equations overpredict amplitude dispersion severely.

Original languageEnglish
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2002
Subtitle of host publicationSolving Coastal Conundrums, ICCE 2002
EditorsJane McKee Smith
Pages280-292
Number of pages13
ISBN (Electronic)9812382380, 9789812382382
DOIs
StatePublished - 2003
Event28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2002 - Cardiff, Wales, United Kingdom
Duration: 7 Jul 200212 Jul 2002

Publication series

NameProceedings of the Coastal Engineering Conference
Volume2003-January
ISSN (Print)0161-3782

Conference

Conference28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ICCE 2002
Country/TerritoryUnited Kingdom
CityCardiff, Wales
Period7/07/0212/07/02

ASJC Scopus subject areas

  • Civil and Structural Engineering
  • Ocean Engineering
  • Oceanography

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