## Abstract

A novel mild-slope equation is derived based on a manipulation of the cylindrical and Cartesian coordinate reference systems. The vertical profile of the velocity field is constructed by solving an approximate problem in cylindrical coordinates. This allows us to address the local derivatives on the bottom profile along a constant-slope line. This formulation is as opposed to the Cartesian-based mild-slope equations in terms of which the profile is constructed by assuming a constant depth. An angular profile is derived for the three-dimensional case on a sloping plane beach. For the two-dimensional case, a mild-slope polar-Cartesian equation is derived, for which an improved linear dispersion relation is reconstructed. This is accomplished due to the inclusion of first-order derivatives of the local bottom profile. The coefficients of the polar-Cartesian mild-slope equation contain the derivatives of the bottom profile up to third order as opposed to second-order derivatives in the Cartesian-based equations. The equation is derived by applying the variational principle to the Cartesian Lagrangian when formulated as a function of the profile in polar coordinates. It is then compared with existing models of the mild-slope equation for simulations of two-dimensional test cases and a quasi-three-dimensional case, which have known analytical solutions. Our modified equation exhibits better matching to the exact solutions for a majority of the investigated cases.

Original language | English |
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Article number | A4 |

Journal | Journal of Fluid Mechanics |

Volume | 970 |

DOIs | |

State | Published - 29 Aug 2023 |

## Keywords

- surface gravity waves

## ASJC Scopus subject areas

- Condensed Matter Physics
- Mechanics of Materials
- Mechanical Engineering
- Applied Mathematics